2013 Nissan Altima Air Filter Guide: Maintenance, Replacement & Buying Guide​

2025-12-15

2013 Nissan Altima Air Filter Guide: Maintenance, Replacement & Buying Guide

Maintaining your 2013 Nissan Altima's engine air filter is a critical yet simple task that directly impacts vehicle performance, fuel economy, and engine longevity. This comprehensive guide provides all the information you need, from selection to step-by-step replacement. For the average owner, replacing the air filter is a straightforward 10-minute DIY job requiring no special tools, costing a fraction of a dealership service. The cabin air filter, which cleans the air you breathe inside the car, is equally important and easy to change. Using the correct filter and changing it at recommended intervals—typically every 15,000 to 30,000 miles for the engine filter and every 12,000 to 15,000 miles for the cabin filter—ensures your Altima runs efficiently, saves you money on fuel, and protects vital engine components from premature wear.

Understanding the Air Filters in Your 2013 Nissan Altima

Your 2013 Altima has two primary air filters: the engine air filter and the cabin air filter. They serve distinct but equally vital functions. The engine air filter is a component of the vehicle's intake system. Its job is to screen the air flowing into the engine for combustion. It traps dust, dirt, pollen, sand, and other airborne debris before they can enter the engine's cylinders. Clean air is essential for the proper mixture of air and fuel. A clean filter allows for optimal airflow, which is necessary for efficient combustion, good power output, and reduced emissions.

The cabin air filter is part of the heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) system. It filters the outside air that enters the passenger compartment through the HVAC system. It removes dust, smoke, pollen, mold spores, and other pollutants, improving the air quality inside your car. This is especially important for individuals with allergies, asthma, or other respiratory sensitivities. A clean cabin air filter also ensures proper airflow from the vents, preventing musty odors and helping the defroster and air conditioner work effectively.

Why Regular Replacement is Non-Negotiable

Neglecting either air filter leads to a cascade of negative effects. A clogged engine air filter restricts airflow. This disrupts the precise air-fuel ratio managed by the engine's computer. The engine may receive too much fuel for the amount of air (a "rich" condition), leading to reduced fuel economy. You will notice a drop in miles per gallon. Performance suffers, resulting in hesitation during acceleration, rough idling, and a general lack of power. In severe cases, the engine may even misfire. Over time, unfiltered dirt can enter the engine, causing abrasion and wear on cylinder walls, piston rings, and other internal parts. This can lead to costly repairs.

A dirty cabin air filter restricts airflow into the cabin. This makes your blower motor work harder to push air through the vents, potentially leading to reduced airflow from the dash vents, longer times to heat or cool the cabin, and in extreme cases, blower motor failure. The filter's inability to trap contaminants results in poorer air quality inside the car, allowing allergens, dust, and odors to circulate. A clogged filter can also become a source of mildew growth, causing persistent unpleasant smells every time you turn on the fan or air conditioner.

Identifying the Correct 2013 Nissan Altima Air Filter

The 2013 Altima was available with two engine options: a 2.5-liter inline-4 cylinder (QR25DE) and a 3.5-liter V6 (VQ35DE). Most models on the road use the 2.5L engine. It is crucial to know your engine size before purchasing a filter, as they are not interchangeable. The physical dimensions and shape differ between the filters designed for the 4-cylinder and the V6 engines. You can find your engine designation on the vehicle's emissions label under the hood, in your owner's manual, or on your vehicle registration documents.

There are three main types of engine air filters: paper (or cellulose), synthetic, and oiled cotton gauze (performance). The factory-installed filter is typically a paper pleated filter. It is effective, inexpensive, and disposable. Synthetic filters use man-made fibers that can often trap smaller particles than paper and may offer slightly better airflow, but are usually more expensive. Oiled gauze filters, like those from K&N, are reusable and designed for high performance and increased airflow, but require periodic cleaning and re-oiling with specific kits. For most 2013 Altima drivers, a high-quality paper or synthetic filter from a reputable brand is the best choice.

Cabin air filters also come in variations. The basic particulate filter traps dust and pollen. More advanced combinations add activated carbon to the filter media. The carbon layer absorbs odors, exhaust fumes (like sulfur dioxide and nitrogen oxides), and other gaseous pollutants, providing a higher level of cabin air purification. Given the prevalence of traffic and urban driving, a carbon combo filter is often a worthwhile upgrade for the 2013 Altima.

Step-by-Step Guide: Replacing the 2013 Altima Engine Air Filter

This is a simple process. Ensure the engine is off and cool. Open the hood and secure it with the prop rod.

  1. Locate the Air Filter Housing.​​ The air filter box is a large black plastic housing on the right (passenger) side of the engine bay. It is connected to a large intake tube.
  2. Open the Housing.​​ The housing is secured by metal clips or simple plastic latches on the top. On the 2013 Altima, it typically uses four metal spring clips, one on each side. Unfasten these clips by pulling them upward and away from the center of the box. Some models may have a single large plastic clamp. Once the clips are released, you can lift the top half of the air box.
  3. Remove the Old Filter.​​ Carefully lift the old air filter straight up and out of the lower half of the housing. Take a moment to inspect the inside of the empty air box. Use a vacuum cleaner or a damp cloth to remove any debris, leaves, or dirt that may have settled in the bottom. Do not let debris fall into the intake tube.
  4. Install the New Filter.​​ Before placing the new filter, verify it is the exact match for the old one. The new filter will have a rubber sealing gasket around its perimeter. Place the filter into the lower housing, ensuring the rubber seal sits flush and even all the way around the opening. The filter is not symmetrical; it will only fit one way, so do not force it. The shape of the filter frame will match the shape of the housing.
  5. Reassemble the Housing.​​ Lower the top half of the air box back onto the bottom half. Press down firmly around the edges to seat the filter's gasket properly. Re-fastened all the metal clips or latches, ensuring they snap securely into place. A proper seal is essential to prevent unfiltered air from bypassing the filter.
  6. Final Check.​​ Visually ensure the housing is closed evenly all around. Start the engine and listen for any unusual sounds like a loud sucking or hissing noise, which could indicate the housing is not sealed.

Step-by-Step Guide: Replacing the 2013 Altima Cabin Air Filter

The cabin air filter is located behind the glove compartment. No tools are usually required.

  1. Empty and Lower the Glove Box.​​ Open the glove box and remove all contents. Look at the sides of the glove box interior. You will see a small plastic stop or damper on the right side. Gently compress the sides of the glove box to clear this stop, then allow the glove box to swing down past its normal open position. It will hang freely, supported by retaining straps.
  2. Access the Filter Compartment.​​ Behind where the glove box was, you will see a long, thin, rectangular plastic cover. This is the filter access door. It is held in place by small retaining tabs, usually one on each end.
  3. Remove the Old Filter.​​ Press the tabs inward and remove the cover. The old cabin air filter will be right behind it. Pull it straight out. Note the direction of airflow arrows printed on the frame of the old filter. It is critical to install the new filter with the arrows pointing in the same direction (typically arrows pointing downward or toward the floor/center of the car). Installing it backwards reduces its effectiveness.
  4. Install the New Filter.​​ Insert the new filter, aligning the airflow arrows correctly. Slide it in completely until it seats.
  5. Reassemble.​​ Replace the plastic access cover, ensuring the tabs click into place. Lift the glove box back into position, guiding the side past the plastic stop until it clicks. Your cabin air filter replacement is complete.

Selecting the Best Replacement Air Filter: OEM vs. Aftermarket

You have two primary sources for filters: Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) and aftermarket brands. OEM filters are made by Nissan or their designated supplier. They guarantee a perfect fit and performance that matches the factory specification. You can buy them from a Nissan dealership parts counter.

Aftermarket filters are produced by dozens of companies like FRAM, Bosch, Purolator, WIX, K&N, and others. They often provide excellent quality, sometimes with enhanced features (like more pleats or carbon layers), and are widely available at auto parts stores and online retailers, usually at a lower cost than OEM.

For the engine air filter, reputable aftermarket brands are a fantastic choice. Look for filters that meet or exceed OEM specifications. For the cabin air filter, especially if you want an activated carbon filter, aftermarket options often provide the carbon upgrade at a price comparable to a basic OEM filter. Always check reviews and ensure the part number is listed as compatible with the 2013 Altima and your specific engine.

Diagnosing a Dirty Air Filter: Symptoms to Watch For

Be proactive. Do not wait for a scheduled mileage interval if you notice symptoms. For the engine air filter, key signs include: a visible inspection showing heavy dirt, debris, or oil saturation; reduced gas mileage; sluggish acceleration; a rough or uneven idle; unusual engine sounds; or the illumination of the Check Engine Light (though this can be for many reasons, a severely restricted filter can trigger codes related to air/fuel mixture).

For the cabin air filter, warning signs are: significantly reduced airflow from the dashboard vents even at high fan speeds; persistent musty, moldy, or unpleasant odors when the HVAC system is on; increased window fogging that is hard to clear; or excessive dust inside the cabin and on the vents.

Cost Analysis: DIY vs. Professional Service

The cost difference is substantial. A high-quality engine air filter costs between 15 and 40. A good cabin air filter ranges from 15 to 30. Your total DIY cost is the price of the parts, with no labor.

A dealership or repair shop will typically charge 0.3 to 0.5 hours of labor for each filter replacement. With labor rates often exceeding 100 per hour, you could pay 50 to 100 or more in labor, plus marked-up parts. A simple 10-minute DIY job can easily cost over 150 at a shop. Doing it yourself saves a minimum of 80% on the service.

Extended Maintenance Tips and Common Questions

Always check your air filters during routine oil changes. If you drive in severe conditions—such as constant stop-and-go traffic, on dusty dirt or gravel roads, in areas with high pollen or pollution, or in very hot, dry climates—inspect and replace your filters more frequently, perhaps every 10,000-12,000 miles. Keep the area around the engine air intake (the opening of the air box) clear of leaves and debris.

A common question is about cleaning and reusing a standard paper filter. Do not attempt this. Paper filters are not designed to be cleaned. Using compressed air or tapping them can damage the porous media, creating holes that allow dirt to pass through. They are disposable. Only specific, expensive performance filters (like oiled gauze) are designed for cleaning and reuse.

Another question involves performance claims. While a high-flow performance filter may slightly increase horsepower on a dyno test, the gains in a stock 2013 Altima are negligible for daily driving—often just 1-3 horsepower. The primary benefit for a normal driver remains protection and maintained efficiency, not power gains. Always be wary of marketing claims that seem exaggerated.

Finally, remember that while changing air filters is simple, it is a vital part of your vehicle's preventive health. Consistent maintenance of these inexpensive parts protects expensive internal components, ensures you have clean air to breathe, and keeps your 2013 Nissan Altima running smoothly, efficiently, and reliably for many miles to come.